Meadville in 1830

Meadville in 1830. -- It will doubtless be of interest to our readers to recall the names of those who were the active residents of Meadville fifty-four years ago, many of whom were identified with its early settlement. The town in 1830 contained a population of 1,104, and was comprised within the boundaries of Water, North, Liberty and Pine Streets, with a few houses on Dock Street. The buildings were generally of log or frame, but a few of brick, all on the line of the streets. The lots were enclosed with board fences, and the sidewalks were made of gravel or tanbark, with here and there a small piece of brick pavement. Water Street, north from Chestnut, was shaded principally with locust trees, though a beautiful row of Lombardy poplars extended from Centre to Walnut in front of John Reynolds’ residence. The sycamores yet standing on Market Street on the property of D.G. Shryock, then shaded the long, low cottage erected by Maj. Roger Alden. In front of the log residence of William McArthur, Sr., on the northwest corner of Walnut and North Main, were fine black walnuts, and the same beautiful maples which add beauty to the home of Hon. G.B. Delamater, then screened from the sun the frame cottage of Col. James Cochran. Apple trees stood in front of the frame residence of Judge John Brooks, on the present site of Dr. J.L. Williamson’ s dwelling. With these exceptions, the "Diamond," as it was then and is yet called, was bare and destitute of trees, its chief use being a training ground for the volunteer and militia companies and a pasturage for stock.

Wood, the only fuel of that time, was piled on the sides of the streets. The many stores were filled with all the miscellaneous assortments suited to country trade, dry goods, groceries, hardware and drugs, which were exchanged for farm produce, wood, black salts and sugar. Pork and beef were salted and barreled in the rear rooms of the stores, and the upper floors were used as storage places for all kinds of produce. Although the temperance question had for some years excited much attention, the early custom of placing the whisky bottle on the store counter, free to all customers, had not been abandoned. A large part of the country marketing was done by the women, who carried their baskets or bundles on horseback, and dismounted on the "horse blocks," placed in front of each store for their accommodation. On the streets wagons drawn by oxen were common. Merchandise was brought from Philadelphia or Pittsburgh in the huge Conestoga wagons, drawn by four or six horses and carrying from two to three tons, accomplishing the trip from Philadelphia in about four weeks.

During the summer months goods were often brought by keel- boats up the Allegheny and French Creek. Most of the exports were either by keel- boats at low water, or during the floods of spring and fall by rafts and flat-boats, which floated in uninterrupted succession, loaded with lumber, hay, grain, whisky and black salts, to Pittsburgh, Cincinnati and New Orleans. At night the water front on French Creek, from Centre to Dock Street, was filled with rafts and boats, and the town with noisy boatmen. Few stores were located through the sparsely populated county, and Meadville was the center of trade for a circuit of twenty or thirty miles. The principal public roads running into the town at that time were the Susquehanna and Waterford and the Mercer and Meadville turnpikes, both of which were toll roads. A daily line of four- horse mail coaches passed over the latter, making the distance from Pittsburgh to Meadsville in twenty-four hours, and thence over the former road from Meadville to Erie in from ten to twelve hours. This was the chief route of travel from the South to Lake Erie. A tri-weekly line of stages also connected with Harrisburg.

The State Road had been cut through the county, but was in an unfinished condition, and at most seasons impassable for wagons. The county roads were rough and unsuited for travel, except by strong wagons, over the wet and low lands, being built with "corduroy." As a result, riding on horseback was much more common than at the present day, the character of the roads affording little inducement for pleasure- driving. The French Creek Canal had been in process of construction for three years, but was only completed to the aqueduct below Shaw’s Landing, which structure was finished by Mr. Cullum in 1830, and in 1833 boats made regular trips from Meadville to Franklin by canal and slack- water navigation. In connection with this, Robert L. Potter, David Dick and other citizens of Meadville, were already undertaking the navigation of the Allegheny by steamboat, and to their enterprise is due the credit for the introduction of the stern-wheel on the Western rivers.

H.J. Huidekoper, Esq., agent of the Holland Land Company, since January, 1805, resided in a two-story white frame cottage with extensions on the north and south, and a piazza the entire front, on the present site of the residence of Rev. Fredric Huidekoper. On the northwest corner of Water and Pine, the site of the Budd House, was a three-storied frame tavern of Livy Barton, whose blacksmith and wagon-shop was in the two- story frame now partly occupied by Long & Swickard’s undertaking shop. At this time the tavern was in an unfinished condition, and a large unplastered apartment on the second floor was rented for public entertainments. In this room, its bare walls lighted with dipped tallow-candles in tin sconces, the rough board stage dimly illuminated by a row of the same for footlights, needing constant trimming with the old-fashioned snuffers, the audience seated on rough benches, (the front seats reserved for the ladies), the "Meadville Thespian Society," composed of the young men of the village: W.W. Dick, Archibald Stewart, George King, John Clark, Robert Adrain, W.P. Shattuck, James Buchanan, Sebastian Chappotin and others, rendered most acceptably the pathos of tragedy or the mirth of comedy. The late Robert Adrain, then a jolly, witty young Irishman, was the comedian, while W.P. Shattuck personated the character of the heroine of romance.

Nearly opposite Barton’s shop was the rival one of John Radle. A broad front stairway and porch gave access to the family residence on the second floor, and the busy hammer rang the anvil chorus beneath. Near the site of the Gable House was the curious workshop of Brazilla Goodrich, the ingenious man of the town, and jack-of all-trades, wood- worker, pattern-maker, locksmith, clock and watch repairer, artificer in brass, silver or iron, house- mover and owner of the only billiard table in the village. His shop was filled with tools of his own invention and manufacture suited to every conceivable purpose. Although crippled by rheumatism and thin and weak in body, he was a most useful citizen.

On the site of the Gable House was the "Lion Tavern," kept by John E. Smith, which was the office of the Bellefont mail stage. Mr. Smith, formerly a teamster between Philadelphia and Erie, was a popular landlord with his country customers, keeping a house suited to their tastes. Andrew Smith, merchant, occupied the southeast corner of Arch and Water Streets.

Roswell Sexton was the owner and host of a yellow frame tavern on the opposite corner of Arch, from which a garden and grass plot with fruit-trees, extended north to the bank of Mill Run. Here beneath the shade of the spreading branches, the patriotic citizens sometimes celebrated the National holiday, with Fourth of July orations, around the festive board of the genial landlord.

On the west side of Water Street was the tanyard of Kennedy Davis, and close to it the store of Wood & Perkins. In a yellow frame building on the southwest corner of Dock and Water Streets, was the drug-store of Samuel W. Magill, subsequently co-editor of the Meadville Courier, and editor of the Democratic-Republican. Dr. C.M. Yates this year moved into the brick house built by William and James Foster about 1820, on the northwest corner of Dock and Water Streets.

Samuel Torbett’s tavern (sign of the buck) stood on the southwest corner of Water and Chestnut, and was a well-finished two-story frame building, deservedly noted for its good table and comfortable accommodations. Here Gen. La Fayette was tendered a reception by the ladies of Meadville June 2, 1825, when on his way from Pittsburgh to Erie. On the opposite side of Water Street a short distance south of Chestnut was the barnyard of Torbett’s tavern, and within its precincts the menageries of the early days were exhibited, the first of which was Harrington’s circus.

Col. Daniel Shryock lived and carried on the mercantile business on the east side of Water Street, where the fine Shryock Block now stands. North of the alley from Shryock’s store Miss Jennette C. Benedict taught school in a small, one-story frame building. Still farther north, in a quaint Dutch looking structure, ‘was the bakery of Jacob Flury, noted for his La Fayette cakes, mead and small beer. Colson & Smith, merchants, occupied the center of the block; then came Torbett’s barnyard, and on the southeast corner of Water and Chestnut stood the frame store of Oscar Cullum.

Where now is Ohlman’s store in the Delamater Block was the tavern of Capt. James Gibson, for many years the Pittsburgh and Erie stage office, a favorite resting place for travelers, and whose cheerful parlor had witnessed many a scene of hilarious mirth in times past, when around the card table and punch bowl were assembled the visiting lawyers from Pittsburgh, Mercer, Franklin and Erie during the intervals of judicial duties. It was at this tavern that Gen. La Fayette dined when passing through the village on the 2d of June, 1825. Opposite Gibson’s tavern was the store of his son, John Gibson, while H.C. Bosler resided in a long log-house built in 1796- 97 by his grandfather, John Carver, where now stands the dry goods house of George D. Trawin, in the Corinthian Block.

Across the alley from the Corinthian Block, in the house now occupied by L.D. Dunn, was the store of George S. King. Messrs. Hiram Bette and Jefferson Limber commenced the tailoring business this year (1830), in the north room of the house then owned by Eliphalet Betts and the home of the former until his death.

At the sign of the "Spread Eagle," on the southeast corner of Centre and Water Streets, Mrs. Henry Hurst yet kept the tavern erected by her husband, now deceased. Opposite in the old building erected by Bartholomew White, which was removed in the spring of 1880, John B. Hunter had opened a book store and bindery.

Col. William Magaw lived in his brick dwelling, now the "Central Hotel," erected by him in 1819, and occupied the south room with his store. He was engaged in the manufacture of white and straw paper at Woodcock, and about this period, with William A.V. Magaw, had machinery for the manufacture of paper placed in the "Red Mill" on Water Street. He was the first to invent and successfully practice in America the manufacture of paper from straw by the use of alkalies.

Dr. Daniel Bemus, the second resident physician of Meadville, and owner of the then important flouring and saw-mills some two miles north of town, lived in the frame house erected by him on Water Street about 1814, and now the residence of Rev. Richard Craighead.

On the opposite side of the street was the frame residence of John Reynolds, Esq., who came to Meadville in 1805, and was a leading citizen of the town throughout his long and upright life. He was a man of good education, and during his later years contributed a number of articles to the press, from which we have obtained a large portion of the matter embraced in this and other chapters. John McFarland had the past year (1829) moved his store into the brick building yet standing on the northwest corner of Walnut and Water Streets.

Dr. Edward Ellis, who after more than half a century, still continues in active practice, opened an office this year (1830) in the building on the northeast corner of Walnut and Water Streets.

Jared Shattuck, merchant, lived in the house erected at the head of Water Street, by Gen. Mead in 1797, and now the residence of Dr. Edward Ellis. His yellow frame store was on the corner of Randolph and Terrace Streets.

Mr. Shattuck was an active, enterprising citizen, and about this time operated a distillery on his farm some three miles northwest of the town.

James White resided in the house now occupied by A.C. Huidekoper on Terrace Street. His tannery and yard were immediately north of his residence.

In a log- house near the center of the grounds of Hon. William Reynolds lived Samuel Lord, one of the earliest pioneers and for many years a Justice of the Peace. His tract of land was patented under the name of "Mount Hope." The site of Allegheny College was donated by Mr. Lord to the Trustees of that institution, and the deed for five acres handed to Rev. Timothy Alden on the 5th of July, 1820, the day the corner stone of Bentley Hall was laid.

There were several business houses on Chestnut Street east of Water Street. Hill & McCurdy manufactured hats on the site of Harry Pierson’s meat market. J. & J.R. Dick carried on the mercantile business in the brick building where now is Philip Bender’s saloon. On the southwest corner of Market and Chestnut Streets was the stone tavern of Capt. Richard Patch, now occupied by a milliner’s store; while between Park Avenue and the Methodist Episcopal Church was the store of John P. Davis.

Around the Diamond were several residences and business places. On the site of the First Methodist Episcopal Church was the store of Judge John Brooks, erected by his son-in-law, Connor Clark, in 1821. Mr. Clark, who was an enterprising citizen of the town died March 24, 1826, and Judge Brooks succeeded him in business. The Crawford Hotel this year passed from the proprietorship of its builder, George Hurst (sign of the cross keys), to Mr. Jesse Rupp, who for many years conducted a popular and prosperous hotel at this stand. On the south end of the lot where the court house stands was the residence and office of Thomas Atkinson, editor and publisher of the Crawford Weekly Messenger. August Bradley carried on chair-making in the house now the residence of Rev. J.V. Reynolds. Near the northwest corner of the Diamond, where the daughters of the late E.A. Reynolds reside, was the post- office. Daniel Andrews had been postmaster since 1814 and continued to fill the position until 1841.

Hon. John B. Wallace lived on the west side of the Diamond on the lot owned by the late Judge David Derickson. The old log- jail yet occupied the site of Brawley & McClintock’s law office, and Judge Derickson then resided in the house now the home of Hon. H.L. Richmond.

Samuel S. Adrain lived opposite his cooper shop, which was on the south side of Walnut, between Park Avenue and the Diamond, while on the southwest part of Rev. T.L. Flood’s grounds stood the log- tavern (sign of the bear), kept by Samuel Gehr.

Roderick Frazier was running a tannery on the corner of Plum and Steers’ Alleys, and also carried on a boot and shoe factory on North Main Street, and the Pattersons--John and Joseph-- had two tanneries, the former in the southeast suburb of the town, and the latter on Mill Run, west of Water Street.

Lot Lewis had been operating a carding and fulling- mill about ten years on Mill Run, in the building still occupied as a carding- mill by Edward Northam.

Some old houses yet remain, which the few pioneers now living will, doubtless, remember as familiar, in their childhood, a few dating back into the past century. The most ancient of these is the residence of Dr. Edward Ellis, at the head of Water Street, built by David Mead, in 1797. The old frame on the northeast corner of Water Street and Cherry Alley was erected in 1798 by Mr. William Dick. In the upper story of this building the courts were held until the erection of the log court house and jail in 1804. The small frame just north of the McFarland Bottling Works on Water Street, was built by Col. Joseph Hackney, in 1797, for a store. The Citizens Hotel (built of logs), was occupied about the close of the last century by Alexander Buchanan. From 1804 to 1811 it was kept by David Compton, under the name of the Washington House.

In 1805 the house on the northeast corner of Water and Walnut Streets, previously erected, was occupied as the residence and store of Maj. James Herriott, who was in his time a man of great energy and of much business ability. He amassed quite a fortune for those days, and owned extensive tracts of timber land, and considerable real estate in Meadville. His prosperity, however, deserted him, and he ended’ his days in the western part of the county in very reduced circumstances.

Frederick Haymaker erected the small frame house on the northeast corner of North and Market Streets at a very early day. He also built the log- house (weather boarded) next south of Mrs. John McFarland’s, afterward the residence of Hon. Patrick Farrelly.

The frame on the southeast corner of Water and Centre Streets was built very early and kept by Gen. Henry Hurst, a prominent citizen of the village, and was the Republican or Anti- Federal headquarters during the first years of the nineteenth, century. The old log Federal tavern which stood on the southwest corner of the same streets, was erected and carried on by Bartholomew White, who was killed in the war of 1812. It was removed in the spring of 1880.

The house on the east side of Water Street, south of Centre, in which Hiram Betts resided until his death a few years ago, was erected by his father, Eliphalet Betts, in 1804, while the home of A.C. Huidekoper on the Terrace was built by James White in 1806, being the first brick residence erected in the village. Capt. Richard Patch built the old stone on the southwest corner of Chestnut and Market Streets quite early. The comfortable home of Rev. Richard Craighead, on Water Street, was erected by Dr. Daniel Bemus about 1.814, and the building immediately’ north on the same lot was built by Dr. Bemus about 1817 for an office, one room being occupied by Connor Clark, merchant. Col. William Magaw erected the building now the Central Hotel in 1819, and the same year George Hurst finished and occupied the "Cross Keys" tavern, now the Crawford House. The drug store of Yates Bros., on Water Street, was built for a residence by William and James Foster about 1820. The two-story brick building south of the Unitarian Church was erected for county offices in 1819, and Edward Northam’s frame carding- mill, near the corner of North and Liberty Streets, was built by Lot Lewis about 1820.

Hon. H.L. Richmond occupies the old homestead of the late Judge David Derickson, erected in 1828, and Mrs. John McFarland still resides in the house built by her husband the same year.

The academy building on Market Street, now occupied by the High School, was erected in 1826, the institution having used the old building which stood on the southwest corner of Chestnut and Liberty Streets since 1805 This latter structure was the pioneer brick building of Meadville, and after its abandonment by the school was remodeled into a residence, and on its site is now the home of James Davis, Esq.

Old Meadville may yet be seen on the east side of Water Street from Cherry alley to North Street, most of the houses dating back prior to 1830. These old landmarks, with perhaps a few others which could be mentioned, comprise all that remains of the village of fifty four years ago. The quiet streets are changed to busy thoroughfares, the slow ox-wagon, the country woman on horseback, the huge Conestoga wagon with its horses and bells are no longer seen. The old stores and shops and the old taverns with their quaint old- fashioned names and signs are gone forever. Here and there young faces transmit the lineaments of their ancestors. The larger number of the busy citizens of that day have been laid with the great army of the dead. A few are yet seen amid the busy throng, some bowed down with the weight of years, a very few still cheerfully bearing their part in life’s work. Most of the old hospitable homes have given place to the thriving store or luxurious residence. Cottages and orchards dot the hillside, then clothed in primeval forest.

The cheery call of the pilot, and the boisterous mirth of the boatman have long been silenced by the whistle of the engine and the rumble of the railway train. The canal, which we have seen ushered into existence with pomp and parade, is buried with the achievements of the past. The old stage-coach with its self-important driver, its tired, dusty passengers, its tooting horn announcing the arrival of news sixty days from Europe, ten days from Boston and six days from New York and Philadelphia, has no more room in the busy present. Even the old burying ground is a resting place no longer; streets, houses and happy children greet us, where once the dead were buried.

History of Crawford County, 1885, pages 381-389